Thanksgiving Dinner

[nverland]

*Parmesan Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes, scrubbed (or peeled if desired) and
cut into thick (about 3/4 inch, 2 cm) slices
Egg whites, lightly beaten
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Dip the sweet potato slices in the egg whites, dredge with
Parmesan cheese, and place on a lightly greased baking sheet.
Season with salt and pepper and bake in a preheated 350F (180C)
oven. Turn after about 15 minutes and continue cooking until
golden brown on both sides and tender in the center, 10 to 15
more minutes.


You can cook the frozen peas in this recipe according to the
package directions, but we prefer to thaw them and just heat
them until they are hot and ready to serve. Multiply this basic
recipe until you have enough to satisfy your guests.

*Peas with Celery and Olives

10 oz (280 g) package frozen peas, thawed, or cooked
according to package directions and drained
1 rib celery, thinly sliced
6-8 pitted green or black olives of your choice, thinly sliced
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil or butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and cook over low
heat until heated through. Serves 2 to 3.


This sweet and sour relish is a welcome change from the often too
sweet preparations that accompany the holiday turkey. This is also
great with pork and goose, and don't forget to put a little on the
leftover turkey sandwiches.

*Cranberry and Onion Confit

6 Tbs (90 ml) butter
4 large onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 cups (500 ml) whole fresh cranberries
1 cup (250 ml) red wine
1/4 cup (60 ml) balsamic or red wine vinegar
Salt to taste

Heat the butter in a non-reactive pot over medium-low heat and
cook the onions until very soft, about 30 minutes. Increase the
heat to medium-high and add the sugar. Cook, stirring frequently,
until the onions are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add the
remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer partially
covered until most of the liquid is evaporated and the mixture
has a jam-like consistency, about 25 minutes. Serve warm or
at room temperature. Makes about 3 cups (750 ml).


No turkey dinner is complete without gravy, and this is a classic
method for producing rich, smooth giblet gravy. If you prepare
your turkey using either the hot smoking or deep frying methods
in Thursday's edition, you will not have any pan dripping to make
into gravy, so be sure to use a good quality chicken or turkey
stock and skip the part of the recipe involving the roasting pan.

*Giblet Gravy

1 Tbs (15 ml) vegetable oil
Reserved neck, giblets, and tail of 1 turkey
1 onion, coarsely chopped
6 cups (1.5 L) turkey or chicken stock
8 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs thyme
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
1/4 cup (60 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the neck,
giblets, and tail until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the onion
and saute for 5 more minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cook
covered for 20 minutes. Add the stock and herbs and bring to a
boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered for
30 minutes, skimming off and discarding any foam that rises to
the surface. Strain the broth (you should have about 5 cups,
1.25 L), reserving the neck and giblets. Pick the meat from the
neck, remove the gristle from the gizzard, and chop the gizzard
and heart into small pieces. Refrigerate the stock and reserved
giblets until ready to use - this may be done a day or two in
advance. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over moderate heat
and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring frequently, until the roux is
medium brown and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Stir in 4 cups
(1 L) of the reserved broth and bring to a boil. Simmer uncovered
for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside until the turkey is
done and has been removed from the roasting pan. Spoon out
and discard as much fat as possible from the roasting pan,
leaving the caramelized vegetables and herbs in the pan. Place
the roasting pan over two burners on the stove top and add the wine.
Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the brown bits in the bottom of
the pan, and cook until the wine is reduced by about half. Add the
remaining cup (250 ml) of the reserved broth and strain into the
gravy mixture, pressing on the vegetables to extract as much flavor
as possible. Stir the reserved giblets into the gravy and bring to a
boil. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve hot.
Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L).


This is my favorite dressing and is one of the items that is often
found on my family's Thanksgiving table.

*Oyster Dressing

1/4 lb (110 g) butter
1 large onion, chopped
4 cups (1 L) bread crumbs
2 cups (1 pint, 500 ml) drained whole oysters
1 cup (250 ml) chopped frozen spinach, thawed
and drained
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped parsley
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers, drained
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry sherry or white wine (optional)
1 Tbs (15 ml) paprika
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a large pot over moderate heat. Saute the onion
until lightly browned. Remove from the heat and combine with the
remaining ingredients in a large mixing bowl, tossing gently to
combine thoroughly. Transfer to a buttered baking dish and cover
with aluminum foil. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 20
to 30 minutes, until heated through. Remove the foil and bake
an additional 15 minutes. Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L).


My family always insists on at least two dressings to choose
from, and this one is especially popular with the younger
generation.

*Sausage, Pecan, and Apricot Dressing

1 lb (450 g) sweet Italian sausage, removed from the casing
6 Tbs (90 ml) butter
1 large onion, chopped
4 celery stalks, chopped
1/2 tsp (2 ml) each dried thyme and dried marjoram
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
12 cups (3 L) dried white bread cubes
2 cups (500 ml) pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) dried apricots, chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley
3 eggs, beaten
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock

Brown the sausage in a skillet over moderate heat. Transfer the
sausage to a large mixing bowl with a slotted spoon and discard the
fat. In the same pan, heat the butter over moderate heat and saute
the onion and celery until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes.
Add the herbs, salt, and pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer
the onion mixture to the bowl containing the sausage. Add the bread
cubes, pecans, apricots, and parsley. Mix together the eggs and
chicken stock and pour over the bread mixture. Toss to combine
thoroughly. Transfer to a buttered baking dish and cover with
aluminum foil. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 20 to 30
minutes, until heated through. Remove the foil and bake an
additional 15 minutes. Makes about 12 cups (3 L).


Many challenges stand between the home cook and the perfect
turkey: the breast meat should be moist and tender without being
over cooked; the thigh meat should thoroughly cooked to a
temperature about 10 degrees higher than the breast meat; and
the skin should be crisp and well browned all over. My three-step
procedure requires more time and labor than most other methods,
but if you invest the extra effort you will never be disappointed by
a holiday turkey again.

*The Perfect Turkey

Step 1 - Brining

Soaking the turkey in a salt and water mixture (brine) before
cooking adds moisture and seasoning to the meat - a large
turkey can absorb up to a pound of additional water during the
process. Use a large stockpot or a clean bucket large enough
to hold the turkey. If you don't have a container large enough,
consider using an insulated cooler or an immaculately clean
trash can lined with a plastic bag. The turkey and brine should
be kept at a temperature of about 40F (4C). The best place to
brine your turkey would be in the refrigerator, but if there isn't
room there, freeze some water in several plastic sandwich bags
and add them to the container.

Note: If you buy a kosher turkey you can skip this step since
the koshering process includes brining.

For turkeys up to 15 pounds (7 Kg):
4 cups (1 L) kosher salt or 2 cups (500 ml) table salt
2 gallons (8 L) cold water

For turkeys over 15 pounds (7 Kg):
6 cups (1.5 L) kosher salt or 3 cups (750 ml) table salt
3 gallons (12 L) cold water

Dissolve the salt in the water in a large pot or bucket. Place the
turkey in a container large enough to hold it along with the brine
and pour the brine over it, making sure the brine completely fills
the cavities. If necessary, place a plate with some weights on it
on top of the turkey to keep it submerged. Refrigerate for 4 to 6
hours for smaller turkeys, or up to 12 hours for larger birds.
Remove from the brine (discard the brine) and rinse the turkey
inside and out. Dry thoroughly inside and out with paper towels.

*Step 2 - Air-Drying

You have just spent several hours adding moisture to your turkey,
so why do you want to air-dry it now? Because the brine has had
the same effect on the skin as it has had on the meat, and if you
want a crispy, golden brown skin you need to remove some of the
moisture you have added to it. Place the turkey on a wire rack
and refrigerate uncovered for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.

*Step 3 - Cooking

I have here three popular methods of cooking your now perfectly
prepared turkey. Oven roasting is the most common method,
and has the added benefit of producing wonderful pan drippings
for making gravy. Hot smoking (my preferred method of cooking
turkey) requires an outdoor covered grill, and deep frying can
require a considerable investment in equipment, but it is a method
that is rapidly gaining in popularity so I have included it here.
Larger turkeys require lower cooking temperatures to ensure
the meat is done without burning the skin, and I have included
a separate recipe for oven roasting larger turkeys to take this
into account. Regardless of the method you choose, be sure
your turkey is at room temperature before cooking it.

*To Stuff or Not to Stuff

Regardless of the method of cooking you choose, I recommend
cooking your turkey without stuffing. Stuffing should be cooked
to at least 160F (71C) in order to be safe, and to accomplish
this requires that the breast meat be cooked until it is dry and
flavorless. If the perfect turkey is your goal, cook the dressing
separately.


The following is James Beard's method for roasting turkey, and
although it seems fussy, it is the only method I know of for
browning the skin on all sides and cooking the breast and thighs
to different internal temperatures.

*Oven Roasted Turkey
For turkeys up to 15 pounds (7 Kg)

2 - 3 medium onions, coarsely chopped
2 - 3 medium carrots, coarsely chopped
2 - 3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
3 - 4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
1 whole turkey, brined and air-dried

Toss one-third of the chopped vegetables and thyme with 1
tablespoon (15 ml) of the butter and place in the body cavity
of the turkey. Tie the legs together with a piece of kitchen twine.
Place the remaining vegetables and thyme in a large roasting
pan and add 1 cup (250 ml) water. Place a V-rack in the pan.
Brush the breast side of the turkey with melted butter and place
the turkey breast side down in the V-rack. Baste the bottom
of the turkey with the remaining butter.

Roast uncovered in a preheated 400F (200C) for 45 minutes.
Remove from the oven and baste with the juices from the pan.
Using large wads of paper towels to protect your hands, turn
the turkey on its side and roast an additional 15 minutes. Add
more water to the pan if it becomes dry. Remove the turkey,
baste it, and turn it on its other side. Roast for 15 minutes,
then remove the turkey from the oven one more time, baste it,
and place it breast side up on the V-rack. Roast until the
breast registers 165F (74C) and the thigh registers 175 (80C)
on an instant-read thermometer, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove
the turkey from the oven and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes
before carving.


The following method is the one I have used for over 20 years.
It produces a bird that is a rich, deep mahogany color, and
meat that is flavored almost to the bone.

*The Chef's Own Smoked Turkey

1 turkey, brined and air-dried
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1 large onion, cut into quarters
2 oranges, cut into quarters
2 - 4 sprigs fresh herbs such as rosemary or thyme
Hickory chips soaked in water for smoking

Rub the turkey with the oil and place the onion, oranges, and
herbs in the body cavity. Cook in a covered charcoal grill by
the indirect method, with the hot coals pushed to the sides of
the grill (I use a well known spherical brand) and with a drip
pan directly under the turkey, adding a handful of wood chips
and additional charcoal every 45 to 60 minutes. Cook to an
internal temperature of 175F (80C) in the thickest part of the
thigh, from 2 1/2 to 4 hours, depending on the temperature in
the grill and the size of the turkey. (I prefer to cook at a lower
temperature, about 300F (150C), giving the bird more time to
absorb the smoke.) The turkey should be a rich, dark mahogany
color when done. Remove from the grill and allow to rest
uncovered for at least 15 minutes before carving.


Deep-frying turkeys is a Cajun tradition that has been gaining in
popularity in recent years. You will need a 10-gallon (40 L) pot,
a propane burner, and a tripod for the pot. The only practical
place to do this is outdoors, and once the flame is ignited it
should never be left unattended. Please be sure that no children
or pets are allowed near the pot at any time.

*Deep-Fried Turkey

5 gal (20 L) peanut oil
1 turkey (up to 15 lbs, 7 Kg), brined and air-dried

Heat the oil in a 10-gallon (40 L) pot over a propane burner until it
reaches 375F (190C). Carefully lower the turkey into the oil (this is
a two-person job) and slowly raise and lower the turkey in the oil a
few times until it sinks to the bottom of the pot. Adjust the flame
to maintain the oil at 325F (160C) and cook for 4 minutes per pound -
a 15-pound (7 Kg) turkey should cook in 1 hour. Carefully lift from
the oil and drain on several layers of paper towels or brown paper
bags. Allow to rest uncovered for at least 15 minutes before carving.


In the United States, hams that are heavily salted and air-cured are
known variously as country, Virginia, Kentucky, or Tennessee hams,
and Smithfield is probably the best known brand. The procedure for
cooking them is time consuming but not laborious, and the result
may be the best ham you have ever tasted.

*Baked Country Ham

1 country ham, 12 - 15 lbs (5 - 7 Kg)
2 cups (500 ml) each coarsely chopped onions, carrots,
and celery
2 Tbs (30 ml) whole black peppercorns
2 Tbs (30 ml) cider vinegar
1 Tbs (15 ml) allspice berries
4 cloves
1 cup (250 ml) orange marmalade
2 Tbs (30 ml) Dijon-style mustard

Scrub the ham with a brush under running water and then soak
it in enough cold water to cover for 24 hours. Hint: If the ham is
too big to fit in your biggest pot, saw off the shank and reserve
it for future use. Drain the ham and place in a large pot with the
chopped vegetables, peppercorns, vinegar, allspice, and cloves.
Add enough water to cover the ham and bring to a boil over high
heat. Lower the heat and simmer covered for 2 hours. Remove
from the heat and allow the ham to cool in the cooking liquid for
2 to 4 hours. Drain the ham and discard the liquid and seasonings.
Remove and discard the skin of the ham, and score the fatty
layer in a diamond pattern. Place in a large roasting pan. Combine
the marmalade and mustard in a small saucepan and heat just
enough to thin the preserves, mixing well. Spoon the marmalade
mixture over the ham and bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven
for about 30 minutes, until the outer layer is crisp and brown.
Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 30 minutes before
serving with an assortment of mustards. Serves 15 to 20.


If the truth be told, I'm not much of a dessert eater. I will usually
take a second helping of "meat and potatoes" and skip dessert,
but there are a few dishes for which I will make an exception.
This is one of them. This is actually my mother's recipe, and I
have never had a store-bought or restaurant pecan pie that can
top it. You will frequently see this served with whipped cream,
but I prefer to eat mine naked. The pie, that is, not me.

*Pecan Pie

5 eggs
1/4 cup (60 ml) melted butter
2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract
1/2 cup (125 ml) brown sugar
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) white corn syrup (golden syrup)
1 cup (250 ml) shelled pecans
1 9-inch (22 cm) pastry pie shell, unbaked

In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs slightly. Add the butter
gradually, alternating with the vanilla, sugar, syrup, and pecans.
Mix until smooth and transparent, and pour into the pie shell.
Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 15 minutes, then
lower the heat to 300F (150C) and bake an additional 40 minutes.
Serves 6 to 8.


This recipe is simplicity itself, perfect for the cook who has spent
the past two or three days conjuring up a Thanksgiving feast. Use
any leftover cranberry relish you have on hand. I particularly like the
fresh berry types, but the canned preparations do just fine in this
recipe.

*Cranberry Sauce Sour Cream Brulee

2 cups (500 ml) cranberry relish, or other fresh or frozen
(and thawed) fruit
1 cup (250 ml) sour cream
1/2 cup (125 ml) brown sugar

Place the cranberry relish or other fruit in the bottom of a shallow
baking dish, or in 4 individual ramekins. Spread the sour cream on
top, and sprinkle the brown sugar over the sour cream. Place about
3 inches (8 cm) below a preheated broiler for about 1 to 2 minutes,
until the sugar has caramelized. Serves 4.


The quintessential all-American dessert is apple pie, although
the dish didn't originate here but was brought by early British
settlers. I remember when every roadside diner in the country
offered a slice of cheddar cheese with apple pie, and maybe
some still do. The more ubiquitous "a la mode" version places
a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top. Both ways are good, and
both are as American as... well, you know.

*Apple Pie

5 to 6 cups (1.25 to 1.5 L) apples, peeled,
cored, and thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 ml) nutmeg
1/4 tsp (1 ml) salt
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
2 9 inch (22 cm) pastry pie shells
1 Tbs (15 ml) sugar mixed with
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cinnamon

Combine the apples, sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg,
and salt in a mixing bowl and toss to coat the apple slices.
Line a pie plate with one of the pastry shells and transfer the
apples to the shell. Dot the apples with the butter. Moisten
the edge of the pastry and place the second pastry shell on
top. Trim and crimp the edge, and make several slits in the
top with a sharp knife. Sprinkle the sugar and cinnamon
mixture over the top. Bake in a preheated 450F (230C) oven
for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350F (180C) and bake
for an additional 25 to 40 minutes, depending on the type of
apples used. The pie is done when the apples are tender and
the crust is golden brown. Serve warm, cold, or at room
temperature. Makes one 9-inch (22 cm) pie.